November 2015





November 25, 2014
Part 1.

We know from Dorothy's odyssey through OZ, it had all types of tribulation and exhilaration,

leading to her being reunited with her family and friends.  Grab your Munchkins kids, we are about to take a trip down my Yellow Brick Road.



I was cramming the last of my clothes, gear, tools and whatever into my two bags, Schlep & Tote, when I took five. During my break I decided to read all the fine print on the plane ticket I had just bought from Frontier Airlines.  Down there in the Tiny Bla Bla I found that I was going to be charged for a carry-on bag.


I was not only going to be charged, but I was going to be abused.  I looked over at Schlep &Tote to see if those two bloated whales could possibly take on the contents of my carry-on
bag.  Since they were allowed to only weigh 44 pounds (20 kilos) each and at their last weigh-in they each were pushing the limit, the answer was,  damn it!  I was now confronted with paying the discount airline, Frontier, more for my little carry-on bag than a checked bag, thereby turning the word discount into a joke.

Kerrie took me to the Denver airport where she bid me farewell. There I was with Schlep, Tote, our new high priced friend Carry-On (C.On) and in a true death grip, was my Personal Bag (PB). A short lived freebie that Frontier has yet to charge for. The death grip on PB was because inside of it was months of paperwork that I had gathered up for the country of Spain so that I might be granted an extended visa.  After all that work, no one was about to get their hands on PB.

Schlep & Tote gladly got on the scale to show off that they qualified for the upcoming luggage orgy that was going to take place on the way to Los Angeles. They may be a bit bloated, but those two know how to party.  I picked up C.On, set him up on my back and headed to the gate.  Along the way I stopped at the shoe shine stand. I like getting my shoes shined at the airport. Whenever I have gone through the Denver airport I get my shoes shined. Provided of

course, they are shineable (not a word, but I like it) I wore a pair of brown leather shoes that definitely needed a shine. I told the shinearista (not a word either, and stupid) that I wanted her to change the color from just brown to a dark brown with a hint of red. She obviously knew I made up words like shinearista, because she looked at me as if I were stupid. She did her best to dissuade me, but in the end realized that stupid is as stupid does and made my shoes dark brown, with a hint of red.  With C.On on my back, PB in a new death grip and a pair of very shinny shoes, we headed off on the Yellow Brick Road to Barcelona.

Some roads are paved in gold, while others are trails of tears. Mine was littered with paper. The documents that I had gathered for Spain and the corresponding deforestation required to produce copies of copies, so that they could later be copied in triplicate led to PB weighing in at 6 pounds (2.7 kilos).  Despite my best efforts, my forest of paper was still incompetent when it came time to for me to leave for my audience in Los Angeles, at the Spanish Consulate.

It wasn't for lack of paper making up my cache of documents. No, not since Weyerhaeuser assured me personally that they would clear cut Canada, just for me. It was the FBI. The old line "where's a cop when you need one?" Was no more accurate then when the nice lady at the FBI told me over the phone, that I would just have to wait.  I had been waiting the prescribed 6 weeks for a computer at the FBI to verify that I was not a criminal. Maybe after making people wait 6 weeks for the same information that Google can produce in 6 minutes, the FBI computer begins to check for intent.

When I discovered that Spain wanted a criminal background check done by the FBI, I immediately called them for details. The on-hold recording told me it takes 6 weeks to investigate me. Then the nice man told me that once they get my fingerprints and money, it could take up to 6 weeks for the report.  My fingerprints and money were in an overnight envelope the next day. Six weeks came and went without a letter from the FBI. My flight for LA was leaving in a week, so it was time for the follow up call. The nice lady at the FBI said to me,   "we should change that message".  "It is now more like 12 weeks ".  Obviously it wasn't in her job description to change the message, so I imagine if you called the Criminal Background Check department of the FBI today the message would most likely tell you that it can take up to 6 weeks for a completed report. Thereby making a call to the FBI, a joke.

Between Frontier's little joke and the FBI's,  I could do nothing more than laugh my way to LA without the report that would arrive 6 weeks after I needed it and the money Frontier had appropriated from me.  My plan was to plead my case at the Consulate and have them hold my request until I could get the FBI report forwarded to them.  Do you suppose I'll ever stop dreaming about the way things should be long enough to realize that I have my head up my ass.

Schlep & Tote introduced me to about 20 of their new friends at the LA airport. They told me that they had put the X into LAX on the flight from Denver. At least that joke was funny. We all made our way to the curb where I was introduced to a few more participants to the luggage orgy. As Schlep & Tote were exchanging name tags, my friend Eileen pulled up.

I stayed with my friends David & Eileen during my short stay in LA.  Eileen was free on that Saturday to make the 15 minute jaunt to the airport.  We went to her home and dropped off Schlep & Tote so they could rest.  I put C.On on the bed, since he was still feeling so valuable and couldn't be put on the floor. PB found a safe place, so off we went in search of groceries and libations. Since Eileen has lived in the LA area for close to 25 years, she knew just where to go.

David is a chef, so after putting in a day of cheffing (not a word until now. I'll be writing Oxford soon) he was going to make us a delicious handmade pasta dinner. He did, it was, and we were all very glad he knows how to cook like that. Especially since my dinner specialty is washing dishes. Not to be banging my own pot, but I'm very good at it. That evening I spent doing the recon (army talk) for the chores that I had offered to do. I have no idea why an old pacifist such as myself uses army talk, but that was my word of choice that day for sorting out what I needed for doing the chores.

I have decided that if I am going to invite myself to people's homes, I should do some
chores. It is my hope that it will help them get over the fact that they didn't invite me, I did.  So far it seems to help, since almost everyone I've done that to has thought of some chores that needed done. If they can't think of any chores, then I pull out my Sponge Bob Custom Dish Sponge and wash the dishes.

Sunday, Eileen and I made the big box store run for supplies, so I could get started on the chores. David was burned out on Sunday, so it was standard fare for dinner. I got some chores done and Sunday came to a close early since both David and Eileen get up very very early to go to work. On Monday I rode with Eileen to work and then took her car to the Spanish Consulate for my audience. I had time for breakfast in a Sicilian restaurant owned by people from Japan. Ya, have to understand LA to love it.

My audience was scheduled for 10 minutes. Apparently that has been determined to be the amount of time it takes to stare at someone and tell them to come back again. That is what happened to the girl ahead of me who wanted a student visa. It was to be my fate as well.

Despite the 6 pounds of paper that PB was holding it proved not to be enough. There was a form that I needed, but it wasn't on the official list of what was needed. Official, being said with my tongue in cheek and hand in fist. When I was in Washington DC this past spring I made an effort to go to the Spanish Consulate General Office to get information on getting
an extended visa for Spain. You see, most of Europe including Spain has adopted a policy that visitors not needing a formal visa may only stay three months. Then you have to be gone for six months. Like the song says, you don't have to go home, but you can't stay here.  I got a print out of requirements and thought I had what I needed. After all, this was Washington DC. Was there any higher office?  I don't know about higher, but each consulate apparently has its own set of requirements. At least that was my experience, because when I contacted the LA consulate, which serves Colorado, about making an appointment.  I was then made aware of an entirely different set of requirements.

All the work I had done meeting the DC requirements was now about half useless and I was now behind the timeline one would need to get the LA requirements done within the new required time span and before when I wanted to leave the country.  There is bureaucracy and then there is Buttaucracy. (It's not a word either, and I'm pretty sure Oxford won't look at this one).

As I stood before my inquisitor I was now asked to not only provide a heretofore unknown
form, but also copies of my driver’s license. That wasn't on the list either and apparently their copy machine is not for helping.  At this point my appointment was technically over, but the woman behind the bullet proof glass felt compelled to see if she could change another requirement. She sure did. That one was the insurance requirement. It was not specific in the requirement printout, so I applied my logic to it. She told me that I was wrong and although the requirement was not specific, it was implied. Implied! Implied!  That glass wasn't bullet proof, it was can't choke the crazy woman glass. Implied! I just wanted to be a resident, not a psychic.

I was told to get everything in order and make another appointment. It would seem that only people living in LA or people with the time and money to keep flying to LA from Denver can really pull this off.  I had to make my appointment a month in advance, so maybe I could come back again in December.   I had a ticket to London and a good friend would be there to pick me up. I decided I would try to get the visa in Barcelona and if that doesn't work then I'll see how Spain treats American wetbacks when the time comes.

Venice Beach, California
I was angry and I was in LA. What's a boy to do? Go shopping of course! I set the GPS for Venice Beach. One of the grooviest places on the West Coast.  I wanted to buy some T-shirts, and what better place than the beach?  I found my parking place loaded up the meter and went for a walk. I found some good sea air to clear my head and some T-shirts. Mission accomplished.  Now it was time to get back and see about getting some more chores done. When I got back to the car I discovered I was 6 minutes late and that the meter cop must have been there watching the timer because my ticket was for the minute the meter expired. Just to make sure that my Monday in LA was destine to be one I'll never forget, I now had a parking ticket that cost almost as much as the flight to LA.

Ok, so Dorothy had a witch and flying monkeys, but really, wasn’t this Monday close to that?
  So how do I melt this witch of a day? Work! I'll just go bury myself in work. Good idea, but my witch was far from dead and the monkeys were full mischief.   Suffice to say that my work that day followed the pattern. Nothing to do but sleep it off and see if those damn monkeys are still there in the morning.

The next morning on the garage floor, next to the headboard I had been working on, was a puddle of witch. I saw the monkeys flying south for the winter too. At least that's what I thought I saw. I really need to have my coffee before the flashbacks. It makes them so much clearer.  That day went well and I was able to finish my chores without incident. When David got home he and I went shopping for the ingredients for the feast that was to be our dinner. During the libation run with Eileen on Saturday, I had bought a bottle of Spanish wine. Since we had not drank it, it seemed to Eileen that dinner should center around the wine and my return to Barcelona.

We were to have David's version of paella. This was to be the second Spanish feast in my honor. Dennis and Pamela put on a beautiful Spanish night for their friends this past summer.  Although it was a four course meal, paella was a predominate dish. Now it was David's turn to put his mark on a paella. It was very nice and the wine was gone much too soon. It was a very nice sendoff evening.

My flight to London didn't leave until the evening on Wednesday, so I had time to finish the headboard project and clean that witch mess on the floor before it was time to pack and shower. Since my 6 pounds of paper wasn't at the Consulate and I had decided to take it with me, I had to do some luggage remodeling. Schlep & Tote just about wet themselves laughing as I kept moving things around and in them to get the right combination of weight for them and my FREE carry-on bag. I had no idea they were so ticklish.  It took some real baggage engineering, but I was able to meet the weight limits on all three pieces of luggage I was taking to Europe.

Last year, I only took Schlep and C.On and a PB. This year I decided that since I at least knew where I was going, despite not knowing what I would be doing there, that I should take another bag with me.  It seemed that I should bring more clothes and be able to settle in more than I did last year. I also brought some tools with me in case I should find some work. I had left tools in Barcelona from last year. I had sent tools to Marta's house this summer and I was bringing even more in Tote. I hope I find something for my little iron friends to do before they become bored.

Eileen took me to the airport and bid me farewell. Schlep & Tote hopped up on the scale to show off their new look and were given the green light. They were about to embark on a 10 hour luggage orgy to London. I've never seen them so giddy.  C.On and I headed on to the ordeal that is now airport security. John Oliver recently mentioned that because of one failed attempt at a shoe bomb, that now we all have to take our shoes off at the airport. There have been 31 school shootings since Columbine and not one change in gun regulations.

Now you know what the TSA sees
We got through security with a promise that my full nude ex ray would be emailed to me once it had been passed around the office. Apparently the boys needed a good laugh. Now it was sit and wait. I rather enjoy waiting at airports. There are so many people to watch that I never get bored.  I sat there waiting for my flight to take me to London and to the second part of my Yellow Brick Road.





November 26, 2014
Part 2. 


Arlo Guthrie sang about coming into Los Angeles from London, from over the Pole.  I knew
Leaving LA
that song well in my youth. I liked Arlo and the song was total nonsense, but drug related, so that made it cool. The truth of the matter is that you come into London from Los Angeles by going over Greenland.  Defiantly much harder to fit Greenland into a song though. 


The flight was comfortable and uneventful. I am now an official buddy in the Norwegian Airline computer. I flew with Norwegian when I left Barcelona this spring. I didn't think to buddy-up then because when would I ever fly with such an obscure airline again? As it turned out, the next time.  Norwegian has positioned themselves as the deep discount airline serving Europe, the US and someplace else. Not being able to pass up a bargain, remember how well that worked with Frontier?  I booked my one way flight from LA to London with them. 

Another line in Arlo's song is "but don't touch my bags if you please Mister Customs Man". That was the first time I had seen customs agents wearing hazmat suits. They not only didn't want to touch Schlep &Tote, they didn't even want to be near them. I barely recognized them as they came around the conveyor.  They were covered in tattoos, piercings and jello, singing “chickens flying everywhere around the plane… could we feel much finer". Apparently they knew the words to Arlo's song too. I asked them about their flight, but all I got was a silly grin and another rendition of Arlo's song. 

It was hopeless! I got some rubber gloves from the Body Cavity Inspection Team, picked

those two up and dragged them out the door. I had a rendezvous to get to and limp wheels or not, those two were coming along.  The next stop was the Immigration Stamp Man. I had been told in LA that the United Kingdom, England, Great Britain, Her Majesties Private Island, or whatever the place is called, had the right to refuse me entry since I only had a one way ticket.  Thanks for the heads up!  I spent my 10 hour flight coming up with a pack of lies, just for this occasion.  The stamp man asked me if the jello was Kosher, stamped my passport and sent me on my way. 


Gatwick Airport

My rendezvous was to be at the coffee shop on the other side of the hall from the door to freedom. I scanned the assembled hordes at the door, which in my case is useless, since I have a hard time finding faces in a crowd, spotted the coffee shop and headed that way. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw someone approaching me. I stopped to see if it was... Yes, it was…. It was Marta. 


Marta was there to meet me and from there, she and I would drive back to Barcelona.  I had come to know Marta during my stay in Barcelona last winter. Over the summer she and I had come up with a road trip plan that would bring her son to London to visit an old friend and get me back to Barcelona.   The plan was simple. She and her son Max would drive up to the Gatwick Airport outside of London, drop Max off so he could get the bus into London and then pick me up at the coffee shop. We would then get lost in the parking lot, leave Gatwick going the wrong way, turn around after a while, make a couple more wrong turns and then finely go the right way. That part of the plan came together beautifully. Then we would drive straight to the EnglishChannel and to the town of Folkestone, where Marta could stop driving her left hand car on the wrong side of the road and gather her wits. TaDaa, nothing to it! 


Folkestone
We had an early reservation the next day for the Chunnel, so after a walk around Folkestone
Folkstone Harbor
that evening it was alarms set and lights out. Folkestone is right on the English  Channel and very close to the entrance of the Chunnel. From the Folkestone harbor you can see the lights of France. Its location relative to France made it a very important loading point for sending the boys off to the slaughter that was to be, The War to End All Wars.  There is money to be made in sequels, so it was rebranded World War I, with the sequel soon to follow. 
  

The Channel Tunnel
Sitting in the car in the train, under the
Ehglish Channel
Chunnel, is the nick name given to the Channel Tunnel French: Le tunnel sous la Manche, that connects Her Majesties Private Island and France. I had thought that cars could drive through the tunnel. They can't. Cars and trucks are loaded onto a train that then whisks you under the channel while you sit in your car.  The fact that you don't drive through the tunnel was a small bubble to burst. The big bubble was popped when we pulled up to the Immigration Stamp Man's booth. 

I had read on the Internet that the best way to extend your stay in Europe was to go through the UK first. The UK allows its visitors to stay 6 months, whereas Europe only allows 3 months. Nowhere did it say that there was a French Immigration booth on the wrong side, ready to stamp your passport. I was dumbfounded. I had read about slipping into Europe via the Chunnel on the Internet, so it had to be true. Everything on the Internet is true, isn't it? Like the Bible!  I now had a stamp from the UK on Thursday and one from France on Friday. I'll have explaining to do when I talk to the Spanish immigration people. It's a good thing I still have that pack of lies.

Calais
We had forgone a predawn breakfast in favor of sleep, so when we got to Calais it was time
Calais France
for breakfast. A few little twists and turns in Calais and we were sitting down to a typical French breakfast. We had lost an hour in the time warp between English Time, yes, they have their own time zone too, and Western European Time.  This meant for a short stay and a long drive. Now that we were on the right side of the road, it was my turn to drive. 

Having navigated in Europe before, I knew to turn my American navigational compass to "Ish". Northish, Southish, etc. it's your only hope for syncing an American compass system to the European directional system. There I was, looking at a Michelin road map, one of the best map makers in Europe and it did not have a compass heading diagram anywhere on the map.  We left Calais going thata wayish in the direction of Honfleur.  The plan was to drive in the rain, miss our turn, get some gas and figure out which way to go and then end up in Honfleur, just as the rain was stopping and the sun was coming out.  Boy! Can Marta plan a                                                  trip!  That is exactly what happened!  


Honfleur is a harbor town at the estuary of the Seine River which empties out into the
Honfleur, France
English Channel. It was a welcome break from the car to be able to walk around such a pleasant town. Breakfast had worn off, so we set out to sit down and have a bite to eat. In French restaurants, cafés and bars you can eat breakfast, lunch and dinner. You cannot eat at any other time. We sat down outside at a cafe and after being ignored for a time Marta went to see about getting some service. "Sorry madam, no food. You can only drink ".
Honfleur, France
This proved to be the case at a few more attempts at getting something to eat.  Fortunately on our stroll through town,  
we had seen some shops that had food stuffs for sale. We doubled back through town, bought some  things to eat and set about eating American Style.  In the car, headed down the road. 

Our next stop was Caen. Not that we planned to stop there, but because it was rush hour and everyone had gotten out on the highway at exactly the same time, so they could sit in their cars.  The delay in getting around Caen was making a long day longer. It also meant we would be arriving at Le Mont - St - Michel well after dark. 


From a distance
This place is considered the pearl of Normandy.  According to Wikipedia, over 3 million people a year visit it. Make that 3 million and two.  We found our way to the Mont and to the dead end road that left us at least a half mile (0.80 km) from the subject of our quest. Not to be denied, we drove into the parking lot that was so well lit up, I dubbed it Mont Sant Michel International Airport. Here we were on a desolate portion of the Normandy coast with hundreds lights illuminating an empty parking lot, producing as much candle power as any airport. Since the lights were on the ground and in perfect rows it lent itself perfectly to the illusion of an
Getting closer
airport.  We followed the parking lot sign with a picture of a car on it. It was closed, but the lights were on. It just wasn't adding up!  The Mont was completely lit up as well, so we left the parking lot for a better vantage point. We pulled over and took pictures of the illuminated jewel, from a half mile away. All the while laughing about buying a post card in the morning and taking pictures of it. 

At the gate
As we stood there taking blurry pictures and laughing at our situation, I noticed not only cars driving out to the Mont, but a bus. There had to be a way to get to that road or that bus. At the dead end road we had previously ended up on, was a guest house.  I decided I was going to knock on the door and see if they could tell us how to get out to the Mont. I drove down to the house and got out.  Marta sensing that I wasn't bothered by protocol or that I couldn't speak French, got out to save the inhabitants from me.  There were people in there, I had seen them, but they weren't coming to the door. Marta was in the process of dragging me away when the inhabitants came out from the back in their car.  When they stopped to tell us to leave Marta busted out her best French. Between them telling us to leave and her asking how we could get to the Mont both problems got solved. 

It's very tall
We left armed with the code to the Mont St Michel airport. You follow the signs with a picture of a bus and not a car, despite that you are driving a car.  The bus sign led us around the parking lot to the other side where cars can also park. There were very few people there at 8 o'clock on a Friday night, but four of the lots were reserved.  We drove down to lot number 1, which had a handicap sign on it, so we backed up past the reserved lots until we came to lot number 5.  I can only guess what possessed me to ignore this lot, but I decided I wanted to go back to lot number 1. I think I was convinced that the likelihood of 100 handicap cars suddenly showing up was pretty unlikely, so why not park there.  The man in the speaker box told me to go back to lot number 5. Figures. I guess the cars were on their way. 



Marta at Mont Saint Michel
We located ourselves and the bus. It was a rather odd shuttle bus. It didn't turn around at the end of its run. Instead it was made to steer from both ends. The bus took us out to the Mont reversing point and then we walked the short distance to the entrance gate. We walked around the Mont, the Abby and the shops. It is a very impressive structure. Not for its architectural style or brilliance, but because people built it one stone at a time from quarries on the mainland and then brought everything they needed across a tidal flat during low tide. The perseverance of these people is what makes something like Mont-St-Michel so amazing. 

We left the Mont and on the way to the car we stopped at the machine that validates your parking ticket. The ticket went in and the lights went off. The machine had eaten our ticket. No ticket, no exit.  The trinket shops were closed, so if the plan is to eat tickets and make you come back through trinketland one more time, it wasn't going to work. It did make us go hunting for the
man in the speaker box though.   We found the Parking Lot Control Tower.  Shift change. Now it was a woman in the speaker box. She told us that she would let us out when we got to the gate.  That operation took both Marta and me talking to two different speaker boxes. In the end the gate arm went up and we were cleared for take-off from Mont-St- Michel International. 

Saint Malo, France
It was now just a short drive to St Malo and the end of our days drive.  Marta had reserved a hotel within the walls of the restored old city. We had long ago given up on dead reckoning and Google directions on paper in favor of my phone's GPS. It wasn't full proof as we had come to learn, but it was much easier to see in the dark.  The GPS was put in charge of weaving us through the streets of St Malo. It did OK and we even found free parking close to the hotel. Good, because it had been a long day in the car and we were both tired. 



Me,  happy not to have  witnessed a
hotel massacre 
The streets of the old city are cobble stone and pavers. After about a block of listening to Marta's suitcase make the noise that little wheels make on cobblestones, she snapped and picked it up. I on the other hand was in full ninja mode with C.On dressed in black and resting on my black coat.  We wound our way to the hotel. It was dark. A bad sign. It was very dark. A very bad sign. There was a sign on the door. Bad sign, bad!  It said the hotel was closed. But take heart O' tired and uninformed traveler, you can go to this hotel, on bla bla street.  Marta was starting to unravel and I was trying to get the GPS to find bla bla street, when a nice young fellow standing on the street noticed our plight and offered directions. 


Marta, in a much better mood
We came up to the hotel on bla bla street and noticed it was dark. A very very bad sign. Then Marta spotted the sign on the door. Bad sign, bad!! This sign, like the other, said the hotel was closed and that we should go to yet a third hotel on blabla de blabla street. Marta was just about to completely unravel when I remembered passing that hotel on the way. She clung onto her last remaining thread as we set out for hotel number three.  We came up to the hotel. There was a sign on the door. It said Ouvert!  Open in French. We went in the lobby and the man behind the desk apparently was not a good judge of people, because in the process of sorting out our relay reservation he pulled on that one thread that was holding Marta together. I stepped back and the hotel manager stepped in. We both saw what was about to happen. 

He was a real smooth talker and soon he had everything ironed out. Now, if the room isn't nice I could be right back down in that lobby watching Marta loose the run of herself and eat a hotel clerk as a midnight snack. (That phrase was for you Mary D., cheers!)  The room was nice and she started to remellow.  (Not a word, but I think it should be. What do you think?) The day was over and the plan for the morning was now in flux due to the late hour and a desire to sleep long enough for all the threads to regroup.  Tomorrow is a new day and a new part. 


November 30, 2014  
Part 3.  

During the intermission it was brought to my attention 

that there are two famous Yellow Brick Roads.

As an American, I only thought of the Yellow Brick Road in the Land of OZ.  As a fan of rock music I suppose I should have been aware of Elton John's double album from 1973, titled Goodbye Yellow Brick Road. I knew some of the songs from that album, but the title had been lost forever in the catacombs of my mind.



I did some research into the title of the album. I was interested to see if that album and my story had any connection. I could find no definite explanation by Elton John or his lyricist, Bernie Taupin regarding the origins of the title. Internet opinions ran wild and at times amuck, but there did seem to be one common thread.  That being Bernie's desire to get off the Yellow Brick Road to stardom and fantasy and get back to his roots. The album is rife with lyrics eluding to Bernie's desire to get back to "his" Kansas and he knew there was no wizard at the end of the road, just disappointment.


On the other hand I feel as though the American dream was over after the Vietnam War
For the vast majority pursuing it, they simply found themselves on a Yellow Brick Road to disappointment.  Of course there have been many exceptions to my point of view, but I contend they are simply a notable few in comparison.   I have said goodbye to that Yellow Brick Road and I've begun to make one of my own.  Fortunately, I’ve had the pleasure of knowing people who have allowed me a way-station at the crossroads of my road and theirs.

Ding, Ding. Intermission is over. On with the story!

The morning in St Malo was short but it did allow us a brief look at the old city and our last look at the English Channel. Our destination for the day was the small town of Blaye in the Bordeaux region. It had been our hope to visit Dinan, Vannes and La Rachelle along the way. Our long day getting to St Malo and the corresponding late start the next day forced us to forego the last two stops of that plan.

Dinan
We did stop at Dinan for lunch though.  A very typical town in the Brittany Region. We

wandered a bit and located a nice little crêpe restaurant. I liked it because it had outdoor seating with blankets. By now my British cold was starting to settle in and that purple blanket looked comforting to me. We sat in a small plaza eating our breakfast and desert crêpes, while watching the people stroll by.  A roundabout walk to the car and we were back on the highway.

 
We were bee-lining it to Blaye on the highway so we wouldn't arrive there too late for our hosts. We were going to stay at a guest house, and since it was a private home rather than a hotel, it was important to arrive at a decent hour. There was one unscheduled stop, but necessary.  There were necessary stops, of course, but this stop was approaching critical proportions.

 We needed gas and food. Although there is no shortage of restaurants in France, there is an acute shortage of anytime dinning, so if we didn't have food in the car we could end up going hungry. That seemed as silly as running out of gas, so when we got to Nantes, we set out to hunt down a gas station and grocery store.

Since I was driving, it was going to be a complete turn and hope project. Marta had some idea where they hide shopping centers in France, so as I kept turning this way any that, she began to see the lay of the land. She figured out that a shopping center should be near us so I pulled up to a bus stop to get us out of traffic. I guess you just don't stop at bus stops to think. Oh well, here we are, so we might as well sort out were to go and let the bus have its spot when it comes.  There was a sign up ahead that lead us to our salvation.

The next stop was the gas station. Then we went to the supermarket across the street, but

not until I had scared the hell out of a couple of shoppers and Marta. In my book, driver indecision means I get to go.  Apparently that is not a worldwide truth.  Now it was time to wander the aisles of the French version of a Walmart or Super Target. We were not only getting food stuffs to get us through our remaining day and a half on the road, but also a few things for my apartment, so I would have a few necessities as soon as I got there Sunday night.


This stop was a logical place for us to switch drivers.  It had been discussed that we would switch at reasonable intervals. It wasn't my ego or love of driving in the rain that made me get back in the driver's seat. Nope. It was just flawed logic, I think. My bout of logic gone badly, like Girls Gone Bad, or was it Wild, or Shopping? Whatever it was, didn't go well.  By the time I decided it was a good time to switch, the good logic part of our driving team was fashioning a hangman's noose out of her giant euro scarf. At least we then had something to talk about as Marta drove through the pouring rain.


Blaye
As we got off the highway and started to wander the little roads to the guest house, Marta
In France it may require 2 pairs
of glasses and a GPS
to find your wa
started to have Tour Guide Remorse. Not as common as Buyers Remorse, but just as real. She began to question the sense in getting off the highway and going to a little, out of the way, town on the
Gironde River Estuary, in the heart of the Bordeaux wine region, rather staying on the highway and making time.  I was having trouble following her concern, so I focused on the GPS and the umpteen turns that were coming up.
From the deck
We pulled into the yard of the guest house about a half hour after the rain had thankfully stopped. Now we could see the signs and we wouldn't have to get our things out of the car during what at times had been a downpour of biblical proportions.  Our hosts Pierre and Veronique were waiting for us. They had built a small cottage in their yard for guests and they had also created a full suite in the far end of their home with its own deck that allowed a view of the river. A view that we would take in the following day.

With our accommodations came breakfast. At the breakfast table was the French couple that had rented the cottage and us. Pierre and Veronique flittered about making sure we had a delightful breakfast. Their flittering was not in vain. It

was all homemade and delicious. The French couple didn't speak English, so they talked to Marta while I tried to figure out why the woman across from me was drinking out of a soup bowl.



I like to observe people's table and eating customs prior to eating. I'd rather fit in than be ostracized by my table mates.  I knew that a French woman would never drink her soup from a giant cup, so what was she doing?  As I waited for the mystery to reveal itself I had some of Veronique's homemade pastries. In due time I watched as Marta made some tea in her swimming pool size tea cup. I guess that's one way to skip seconds and fifths on tea and coffee.


With that mystery solved, I was free to have a cauldron of coffee with my breakfast. Somewhere in the French conversation it must have turned to Veronique's pastries. She made an about-face and when she came back from the kitchen she was cradling in her arms her baby. It was an electric pastry and bread maker.  The ladies all admired her baby while the French guy and I stuck our heads in our coffee vats.

After breakfast we walked the grounds a little, looked at the cottage that Pierre had built
Bordeaux France
himself and headed out on our final leg to Barcelona. We gave ourselves over to the GPS and every little road we could find that followed the river to its confluence with the Dordogne River. The vineyards of the Bordeaux region go on for as far as the eye
Bordeaux France 
can see. The leaves on the vines had turned yellow with the season and provided a beautiful contrast to the overcast sky.  We spent what time we could along the river and in the vineyards, but like the preceding days, we had a long way to go.


When we reached Toulouse, we got off the highway and drove on the side-road that paralleled it. We had a few hours of daylight left, it wasn't raining and we were longing for a wrong turn or two.   In France everything closes Sunday evening, so that meant one more gas stop and a roadside picnic with the bread we bought at the last-call shop we found along the way.  We were going to get on the toll road and jam it to Barcelona, but first we had to at least one more quick stop.

Marta and I had spent part of a day in Carcassonne last April and now here we were again,
only this time our pictures would be from a distance. The sun was setting and throwing its final rays on the fortress. A beautiful and fitting farewell to France.  From here on the road was dark and served only as a conduit to Barcelona.

Through Marta I were able to rent an apartment prior to my arrival in Barcelona. My rent started on the 15th of November and here it was the 16th and we were rolling into Barcelona. Marta had picked up my house keys prior to coming to London, so all that was left to do was get the car close to the apartment, so that the luggage logistics wouldn't require a lot of walking.


Marta had checked out the parking situation around my apartment when she picked up the keys and had it worked out, so we could pull up in front of the apartment, off load my luggage and then find parking. Her plan was perfect except that on Sunday night for no apparent reason they close the road in front of my apartment. This kind of surprise is never welcome after a long days drive.  We went in search for parking near my apartment. Normally that is akin to hunting Martians in New Mexico.  You are pretty sure there are some, but damned if you can find one.

Unless of course you know where to look. Marta spotted one and slid her car into it.  I pulled Schlep & Tote from the back of the car. This was the first time she had really looked at them. She asked me if they always looked like that. I explained their trip to London as we rattled their little wheels over the pavers on our way to my apartment. When we got to the apartment door I asked Schlep & Tote to shake, like the two dirty dogs they were.  Plop, plop went the last of the jello. Marta stood there in disbelief and then asked if it was Kosher.

Bonnie lives about a 15 minutes’ Metro ride from my apartment, so she came over to join in


the welcoming. When she came to the door she was muttering about almost falling on her butt when she stepped in some jello down by my door. She saved the wine though, so let the housewarming begin!   The night drew to a close since it was now morning and there I was in my new apartment in the old city portion of Barcelona, Spain. 



Remember those shinny shoes of mine?  That they were brown with a hint of red?  That was Ruby Red and this little Dorothy was back in his Kansas. 


La Fin
El Fin
La Fi
The End



Photo Gallery

In the Chunnel Train
Calais France









Honfleur France

Honfleur France











Honfleur France




Saint Malo











Dinan France

Saint Malo









Dinan France



Gironde River
Blaye Frnace











The Gironde & Dordonge Rivers
Bordeaux France




A Happy Me
Somewhere in Frnace